Method of and apparatus for forming spear points on gloves



July 13 W. RLGEARY METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR FORMING SPEAK POINTS ON GLOVES Filed April 27, 192:5 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 N m n A July 13 1926.

w. R.-GE RY* METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR FORMING SPEAR POINTS 0" GLOVES 4 Sheets-Shut 2 Filed April' 1923 ATTORNEY July 13 1926. 1,592,762

w. R. GEARY METHOb OF AND APPARATUS FOR FORMING SPEAR POINTS ON GLOVES Patented July 13, 1926.

UNITED [STATES WILL R. GEARY OF HORNELL NEW YORK.

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOB/FORMING SPEAR POINTS 0N GLOVES.

' Application filed April 27, 1923. Serial No. 635,053.

This invention relates to improvements in machines for making what has become known in the glove art as spear points.

I On the back of gloves are several longitudinally disposed cords, made in various Ways with stitching machines, to lend beauty and style to the gloves. To lend further style and beautyto the glove backs, manufacturers have added to the cords short angular cords or legs disposed on opposite sides of the main cords to form what has now been recognized as spear points. As these angular short stitches forming the spears are disposed some distance from the terminals of the-main cords, the latter have to be completed, and subsequently the glove material moved or adjusted under the presser foot to first stitch one side of a spear, then again release and adjust the material and form the opposite side of the spear.

Intheformation of the opposite angular stitches in the production of the spears, the operator guesses at the alignment and the number of stitchesnecessary to complete the legs of: @the spear, with the result that even where expert operators are employed, the angular disposition of the various spears differ and the number ofstitches in the respective/spear legs,--or the stitches between any two spears differ. Under these circumstances the finished product is not satisfactory and results in what may be termed inferior workmanship. 1

The object of the invention is to provide a machine and method, wherein an operator can accurately locate a glove back beneath a presser foot and guide to stitch the respectivelegs forming the spear point at the same. angle with respect to the cord to which they are attached, and at the same time construct these respective legs of the spear point of the sameznumber of stitches by automatically limiting the stitching operation of the machine to a predetermined number of stitches in each instance.

with a cord aligned with the inclined edge.

of the guide, the particular spear point leg being formed will bestarted a distance from that cord, equal to the distance of the inclined edge of the guide from the needle hole in the guide in the line of stitch. Thus with the glove. arranged to position the particular cord in line with the inclined edge of the guide, the predetermined'number 0t stitches permitted by the automatic control mechanism of the sewing machine will stitch a spear point from the starting point on the glove,.beneath the needle hole of the guide, to the cord which is aligned with the guide. The second position of the glove back for thesecond leg of the particular spear is provided for by adjusting the previously aligned cord the proper angle to the inclined edge of the guide and the juncture of the previously formed spear leg and that cord beneath the needle hole of the guide. Thus the guide serves to cooperate with the cord to which the spear point is being applied in both instances, that is, in forming both legs of the particular spearpoint, and the spear point as an entirety starts at the free terminal of one leg and ends at the free terminal of the other leg, one spear point being stitched toward the cord and the other from the cord.

The invention also comprehends the utilization of the guide as a means for. providing an additional leg or more than one to the twoleg spear point, this being particularly desirable where the cords are of double form as indicated in Figs. 14 and 15. For this purpose, by arranging the cord terminal sub stantially at the inclined edge of the guide in the line of stitching with one of the legs of the previously formed spear point at right angles to saidguide, the third leg of the spear point will be stitched in line with the cord and will be started at the proper distance from the endof said cord, as the cord is in a position for starting which defines the length of the spear leg being stitched and alsoits direction.

The uniformity of angularity of the spears and the respective legs of the spears being formed of exactly the same number of stitches results in the production of glove backs having all the spear points exactly alike, and further results in a neat and carefully worked out design on the glove.

In order that ,each of the legs of all the spears shall have the same number of stitches, it is absolutely essential that means be provided to automatically stop the stitching mechanism immediately the desired stitches have been formed, and yet provide means for permitting manual operation of the stitching mechanism after the machine has been stopped to permit mending or add ing stitches, if found desirable or necessary. Therefore, it is one of the objects of this invention to provide means for automatically disconnecting the power from the stitching mechanism and immediately applying a brake to reduce the momentum of the parts after the power has been disconnected, and thereafter free the stitching mechanism from the stopping mechanism and leave it free to be manually operated, without in any way affecting the power driven means.

The invention also comprehends improvements in the details of construction and arrangement of parts which will be hereinafter described and particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a perspective view of my improvement shown applied to a Singer cord machine.

Figure 2 is an end view of the same, showing the parts in normal position in full lines.

Figure 3 is a sectional view of the attachment, showing the parts in operative relation when stitching.

Figure 4t is a similar view but showing the power disconnected, and the brake applied.

Figure 5 is a similar view but showing the parts in normal position.

Figures 6 and 7 are views of the clutch members and the shiftable element.

Figure 8 is a view of the lower end of the arm and the buffer.

Figure 9 is a detail perspective view of the presser foot.

Figure 10 is a view illustrating the first position of the material under the presser footto form one leg of a spear.

Figure 10 is a similar view showing the position of the parts after completion of the first leg of the spear.

Figure ll is a similar view showing the material shifted and relocated to form the second leg of a spear.

Figure 11 is a similar view but showing the position of the material when the spear is completed.

Figure 12 is a plan view of slightly different form of presser foot.

Figure 13 is a view of another form of presser foot.

Figures 14 and 15 are diagrammatic views showing how double spear points may be made.

In the drawings, 1 indicates a Singer sewing machine of the type for forming cords on the backs of gloves. This machine em bodies the usual stitch forming mechanism,

includin in this instance a pair of needles 2, and associated therewith a pressure foot 3. The presser foot as shown is made in two parts 4 and 5, the part 4 being attached to the usual vertical post 6, mounted in the head of the machine, while the part 5, is pivoted at 7, to the toe of the part i. The part 5 founs the foot proper and is provided with ears 8, through which'the pivotal connection 7 passes, the pivot being so located as to permit of a slight rocking movement of the part 5 when the glove material is inserted. The front edge of the foot is angular, as at 10, to form a visible guide in making the spear points, while in rear of the front edge is an elongated opening 10 for passage of the needles. In addition to this function, the opening is used as a means for sighting a point on the glove for starting the first leg of a spear, as well as sighting the finished end of the leg to ascertain if same has had stitches enough to reach the cord.

The presser foot may have its front edge bevelled in opposite directions to form two visible guides in the formation of the spears, as shown in Figures 12 and 13. These edges 11 and 12 may come to a point in front of the foot as shown in Figure 13, or the edges 13 and 14; may extend inwardly and terminate at a point in rear of the front, as shown in 'Figure 12. Obviously, an ordinary rigidly formed presser foot could be employed in lieu of the two part structure described.

Cooperating with the visible guide are means to determine the number of stitches worked in a spear point, and means for effectively stopping the stitching mechanism with the needle up and out of the material and above the presser foot to leave the opening 10 unobstructed to enable the operator to view the cord to start the stitching in the next operation.

On the shaft 15 of the sewing machine, and fitting over the bearing projecting from the head is the cupped end 16, of astub shaft 17, the two shafts being pinned together at 18. Fastened on the cup end of the stub shaft is the usual hand or balance wheel 19, and adjacent thereto is fastened one member 20 of a; positive clutch 21. This memher is recessed at 22, and at the edges, it is provided with a series of teeth 23. Slidably mounted on the stub shaft is a shiftable element which is formed at one end with a clutch member 2 1, at its opposite end with a clutch member 25 and intermediate the clutch members with a pinion 26. The clutch member 24 is recessed on one face as at 27, and on its edge it is provided with a series of teeth 28, this member and the member 20 constituting the clutch 21. Housed in the recesses and 27 is a spring 29, the tension of which tends to normally hold the two members apart and consequently the teeth 28out of engagement with the teeth 23. The clutch member cooperates with a clutch member 30, and forms with the latter a friction clutch 31. The member 30 is formed on a pulley 32, which is loosely mounted on the stub shaft 17, and integral with this pulley is a hub which is-provided with a groove 33 to receive a clutch shifter 34. The flange on rthe' loose pulley which which forms the clutch member 30 v is bevelled on its periphery, as .shown at 35, while theclutch member 24 is correspondinglybevelled as at 36 but in the op posite direction as shown in iFigure3.

The outer end of the stub shaft 17 is mounted in a bearing formed in a bracket 37, and a spring-38, inter osed between the two clutch members 25 an 30, tends to normally slide the loose pulley toward the bearing and separate the clutch engaging surfaces.

The numeral 40 indicates an arm pro vided at its upper end with a bearing opening 41, which receives the hub 42 'of the clutch member 20. The hub rotates in the bearing in the arm but the latter is hung on the hub and depends therefrom. The lowerend of the arm is provided-with oppositely disposed pins which operate in guides formed in ahousing 44 arranged on the table supporting the sewing machine. Buffer springs eei are interposed between the arm and the ends of the housing, the tension of the sprin s being equal so as to hold the arm in a pre etermined normal position.

Extending from andfixed-to the arm 40, is a :stub shaft 45 andto the outer endof the latter is fastened the bracket 37. Mounted to rotate on the stub :shaft 45 is a gear wheel 46, whichmeshes with the pinion 26. On opposite faces of the gear'wheel are lugs 47 and 4.8, the lug 47 being positioned and bevelled on one face to engage with the bevelled periphery 36, ofthe clutch member 24, while the lug 48 is positioned: and bevelled to engage with the bevelled periphery 35 of the clutch member 30. Mounted in one face of thelug 48 is an anti-frictionroller 49, designed to reduce friction when in cooperative relation with the bevelled periphery 35, as will be explained laterv on. Aspring 50has one end made fast at 51 to the gear wheel, and is then coiled around the stub shaft and has its opposite end fastened to the arm 40 as shown at 52. The tension of this spring is such as to normally bring an adjustable stop 53 up against a fixed abutment 54, or if desired, the location of the stop and abutment may be reversed. As shown, the adjustable stop may be engaged in any one. of a series of openings 55 in the gear wheel 46.

The pinionmiikes one complete revolution in the formation of one stitch, and the teeth ofthe gear wheel are multiples of theteet-h of the pinion so as to predetermine thenunr. ber of stitches. In connection with this ratio of teeth, the operator can determine the number of stitches the stitching mechanism will produce by adjusting the position.

of the stop 53.

Assuming the parts are in their normal position as shown in Figures 1 and 2. That is to say, the clutches 21 and 31 are disengaged, and the adjustable stop 53 is up against the fixed abutment 54, which positions the needle above the presser foot. The operator now takes the glove back on which the cords have been worked and passes it under the presser foot with the cord, as a, to which the spearpoints are to be connect ed in line with the edge 10 of the guide, The line of stitching indicated at Z), is thus at an angle to the cord at, and this angle is the predetermined angle of the particular spear point leg being formed to "the cord. Furthermore, the distance between the needle and sighting opening 10 in the guide to the cord a, is the usual length of the leg of the spear point, that is the 'lengthdeter mined by the number of stitches permitted by the automatic control mechanism hereinbefore described. Having completed the stitching of this leg, the final stitches will be at or'on the cord. lVhile sighting the guide, the operator also sights a point on the glove through the opening 10 to properly locate the material where the needles are to begin the stitches in the formation of the spear leg. The distance between the edge 10 of the presser foot and the center of the openingtherein is the same or-about the same as the length of a leg of a spear, so as to insure of the last stitch terminating on the cord. The proper position of the glove back having been obtained, the presser foot is lowered, then the operator applies pressure to the treadle 60, and through suitable connections, such as shown at 61, the clutch shifter 554i is actuated, which impinges the loose pulley, andin turn the clutch member thereof slides the shiftable element onthe stub shaft. This action simultaneously engages the various clutch members, with the result that the power from the loose pulley is transmitted to the shaft of the stitching mechanism. Immediately the shiftable ele ment commences to rotate, the pinion rotates the gear wheel 46, which of courseincreases the tension of the spring 50. Movement ofthe gear wheel continues until the lugs 47 and 48 contact with the bevelled peripheries 35 and 36 of the clutch members, at which time the lug 4E7 commences to actv as a brake to retard the motion, while the lug 4.8 through its roller 49 commences to slide the loose pulley on the stub shaft 17, and thereby disconnect the power from the shiftable element. The disengagementof the clutch 31, is justua trifle in advance of the close application of the friction of lug- 47 on its cooperating surface, therefore as soon as the power is disconnected, the brake commences to retard the momentum of the stitching mechanism and as the gear w ieel cannot rotate any further, the number of stitches is not only limited but the needles are stopped at a point above the presser foot and positioned for the next operation, the proportion of the paits, particularly the presser foot, being such that the first leg of the spear point terminates at the center of the cord which was previously used as aguide in connection with the edge of the presser foot.

Lateral movement of the loose pulley 32 on the stub shaft 17, causes the teeth on the members of the positive clutch to en; gage, this engagement being maintained until pressure on the treadle is released, although the members of the friction clutch 31 are separated at the time the lug 48 contacts with the clutch member 30. Hence, while the power is thrown off the mechanism, the positive clutch holds the stitching mechanism in-stopped position through the lug 4L7 and'the gear wheel 46. It therefore follows that when the lugs r: and 48 come into operative relation with the clutch members, they serve to disconnectthe power, apply the brake on the stitching mechanism after the power is disconnected, and positively stop the stitching mechanism at a predetermined point, and hold same in this position until the treadle is released to permit theparts to return to normal position. It will of course be understood that the brake element 47 is forced into contact with the surface 36 of the clutch element 24 under the driving power of the motive mechanism of the sewing machine, and that the frictional cooperation between these parts would necessarily require substantially a power of similar force to move the gear wheel &6 in the opposite direction to break the frictional contact, or in other words relieve the braking action. The spring 50 is obviously insuflicient to exert this power, and hence the wheel l6 will remain in braking position until pressure on the treadle is released, at which time the clutch element 32 moves laterally, relieving pressure on the spring 38, and the clutch element 2a is thereupon disengaged from the cooperating clutch element 21 by force of the spring 29. The clutch element 24k then moves laterally and is wholly free, \VhGlQr upon the spring 50 will restore the parts to normal position.

\Vhen the lugs 47 and 48 impact with the bevelled surfaces of the clutch members, the blow is quite considerable. The strain on the parts however, is relieved by the buffer springs at the bottom of the arm. That is to say, because of the gear wheel being mounted on the arm, and the fact that the latter is hung on the hub of one of the clutch members and swings in an arc, the arm and gear being locked together, they both rock as a unit, the springs absorbing the shock, and subsequently return the parts to the position when stopped by the impact of the lug with the clutch mmeber.

One leg of the spear having been thus completed, the operator releases the treadle, the presser foot is elevated, and the glove is adjusted for the other leg of the spear. In this adjustment, the cord a, is turned at right angles to the inclined edge 10 of the guide, and the final stitching of the leg previously completed, that is, the juncture of that leg of the spear and the cord, is accurately positioned beneath the needles by sighting through the opening 10, this position being plain from Fig. 11. The stitching of the second leg of the spear is then completed, this line of stitching starting at the cord and continuing for a number of stitches determined by the control mechanism to complete the second leg of the spear. During this stitching, the cord 64, is maintained at proper angles to the edge 10 of the guide, and hence the line of stitching of this second leg will beat exactly the same angle to the cord as is the first leg, and the number of stitches in each leg of the spear will be exactly identical. After positioning the glove for the stitching of the second leg of the spear, the presser foot is lowered, the treadle is depressed, and the parts are operated as described in the formation of the first leg of the spear, the stitching mechanism stopping when the leg reaches the desired length as shown in Fig. 11

Thus, as described, the legs of the spears are formed at the proper or predetermined angle to each other, and each contains the same number of stitches and therefore all the legs are of the same length. It is evident however, that the legs of the spears may be made at any predetermined angle with reference to the cords.

After the legs of the spear are finished, if perchance either of them require an additional stitch or two, or mending is necessary, the stitching mechanism is entirely disconnected from the power shaft and the operator can manually turn the hand wheel and thereby make the desired number of additional stitches or mend the stitching with out in any way affecting a subsequent operation.

Spear points made in accordance with this invention are all uniform, both in length and angle, which lends neatness and beauty to the final product. In addition to the uniformity of the product, the cost of production is materially reduced and the speed in manufacture is correspondingly increased. j A, n H

It may be found desirable to add a third or even more legs to the spear. In the event of the third leg, it is usually applied at the end ofthe cord and in line there with as at 0, Fig. 15.-- In arranging the glove for the stitching of this leg, the terminal of the cord a, is aligned substantially with the edge 10 of the guide with the cord extended in the line of stitching. As nre viously stated, the end of the cord will then be positioned from the sight opening 10 a distance corresponding accurately to the dis tance permitted the stitching operation by the automatic control means. If desired, the cord in its original position for this third leg may be further and possibly more accurately positioned by maintaining one of the legs of the spear already formed at right angles to the edge 10 of the guide, this will insure that the third leg of the spear is in line with the cord. The operation of the control for the stitching mechanism will of course be affected after the gloveback is positioned for this third leg and the presser foot has been lowered to permit stitching.

So far as I am aware, s ear points on gloveshave been made in a s ow and rather guess work fashion, no attempt having been made to guide the location of the legs or regulate the number of stitches required in the legs to make them uniform. Manufacturers depend today upon the skill and intuition of the operators in making spear points on gloves, which, as above stated, re sults in defective and irregular production. By my method and machine, all the spear points on a glove are uniform in formation and accurate in length and angle.

If desired, the double bevelled edge of the presser foot can be employed, one edge being for one leg of the spear while the other edge can be used for the opposite spear le it will be obvious that the presser foot maybe formed with other edges-and slots to permit making three or four or more points on a glove back.

The parts are so constructed as to make it possible to attach the improvement to machines now in use, by simply removing the ordinary hand wheel, applying my construction, and securing the frame for the supporting arm on the table of the machine. Of course, the presser foot on the machine should be changed to be in accord with the construction described.

It has been heretofore stated that ordi narily the length of the leg of the spear point will be equal to the distance between the sight opening 10 and the inchned edge 10 of the guide in the line of stitching, and under these circumstances the cord in the formation of the first leg will be aligned with the inclined edge of the guide as shown in Fig. 10. However, as the automatic means for controlling the number of stitches is adjustable in adapting the same for a greater or less number of stitches than that required for the predetermined distance above referred to, it is apparent that with such greater number of stitches for example, the cord in its initial positioning as indicated in Fig. 10, will be arranged in parallelism with the :inclined edge of the guide but spaced therefrom to provide for the greater length of spear point leg determined upon. Thus with the use of the guide and the proper control of the automatic stitching mechanism, the length of the leg of the spear point may be regulated as desired, and this without necessitating the change of the uide or presser foot for such diflerent lengt 18.

Claims:

1. The herein described method of stitching spear points on gloves to form such points of uniform lengths and angularity with respect to the cords from which they extend, consisting in positioning the glove in the sewing machine by arranging one of the cords in predetermined relation to a guide to thereby determine the angularity of the stitching of the particular spear point leg with relation to the cord from which it extends, automatically limiting the number of stitches of such spear point leg in the subsequent stitching operation.

2. The herein described method of stitchin s ear oints on loves havin' cords ing in placing the glove for stitching with one of the cords in predetermined relation to an edge guide to thereby determine the angularity of subsequent spear point stitching to said cord, and automatically limiting such subsequent stitching to a predetermined number of stitches while maintaining the initial relation of the cord and guide.

4:. The herein described method of providing spear points for gloves having cords, consisting in providing a cord guide having an edge of that angularity to the line of stitching corresponding to the angularity of the spear point legs to the cord from which they extend, positioning the glove to arrange one of the cords in predetermined relation to the edge of the guide, stitching the spear point leg while maintaining the guided relation of the glove cord to the edge of the guide, and automatically stopof stitching beneath the needle and one of the cords in predetermined relation to said guide, and stitching a spear point leg with a predetermined number of"stitches, changing the position of the gloveto arrange the previously guided cord in a different relation to the guide, and stitching the second leg of the spear point with an exactly identical number of stitches as in the first leg.

6. The herein described method, consisting in utilizing a cord to which the spear point is to be applied as a guide, arranging this guide cord in predetermined relation to an edge guide to define the angularity of the particular spear point leg being stitched to the cord from which it extends, and automatically limiting the stitching of both legs of the spear point to an identical number of stitches.

7. The herein described method, consisting in utilizing a cord of a glove back to which spear points are to be applied for cooperation with an edge guide to determine 'the angularity of both legs of the spear point with respect to that cord, the cord in one instance being aligned with the edge guide and in the other instance being at right angles to said edge guide, and stitching the respective legs of the spear toward the cord in the formation of the first leg and from the cord in the formation of the second leg, the said stitching being automatically limited in both legs to the same number of stitches.

8. In an apparatus for controlling the application of spear points to gloves having cords, comprising a guide having an edge at that angle to the normal line of stitching corresponding to the angle between each spear point leg and the cord from which it extends, combined with means to limit the stitching operation of the spear point leg to a predetermined number of stitches.

9. In an apparatus for controlling the application of spear points to gloves having cords, comprising a guide having an edge at that angle to the normal. line of stitching corresponding to the angle between each spear point leg and the cord'from which it extends, combined with means to limit the stitching operation of the spear point leg to a predetermined number of stitches, said guide being formednvith a needlesopening serving additionally as a sight opening for ascertaining if the spear point leg terminates at and joins the cord.

In testimony whereof I aiiix my signature.

WILL R. GEARY. [1,. s.] 

